8-0h Triple Stringer Fish (that's inches)

Mike's Wall at Palomar Chiropractic

My friend and neighbor, Dr. Paul Peters has given me some wall space at his chiropractic office in Vista.  His business is called Palomar Chiropractic.  Paul is a great guy and fellow surfer.  Many of his paitents are surfers and other sport types and he has done wonders keeping me (and many others) limber and in the water over the years. Eveyone seems to enjoy the variey of boards and fins that I display.

Eggy Redwood

7'10" x 21" x 1.5" thick and no rocker.  Made of redwood heart and sap wood with a ployurethane finish (no glass).  This plank rides pretty much like a regluar boards despite it's 25 pounds and minimum float.  It paddles good and I'm surprised at the drops I can make despite the dead flat rocker.  The fin is redwood, very thin and very flexy, hence the leash loop.  I don't think the fin would survive multiple beachings.  After a few sessions, I ended up hollowing out the deck.  This removed 3-4 pounds and lightened up the nose of the board considerable. 

Minor Details

Here is a typical 1/4" plywood frame.  Now I would add 1/4" square pieces along the top and bottom so there is more gluing area for the top and bottom skins.  Note the chine rail notch at the end of the rib.

Here you can see the chine rail strip going in.  For  softer rails use a 3/8 to 1/2 " wide chine just to be safe. 

Here is a close up of the chine rail strip.  After that is in on both sides, then you can add the first rail strip against the chine strip.

Here the rails are done and they run long at either end.  I'll cut them clean and add solid blocking at the nose and tail so I don't have to bend the rail strips to the curves. 

Here you can see how much the top skin will overlap the rails at the sides. You can also see the solid rail blocking at the tail.  A solid tail block gets epoxied on later.

Here the rails are wrapped over the top for a couple of inches for a good overlap and I've added some longtudinal stringers (1/4 x 1/4") set into the tops of the ribs for additional gluing area.   At this point, the rails in the deck area get planed down, thinning toward the middle of the board so the deck has a nice fit.

Summer Beater

Here is another beater repair.  This board, my last foamy, sat up in the rafters for over a year after my daughter broke off the nose and I tore it up on some rocks.  But, hey, why not fix it.  Everyone needs a beater for those crowded summer days.  So I cut in new foam, reshaped and reglassed.  Gorgeous. 

It Had To Happen Sooner or Later....

Water.  Hollow wood surfboard.  Keep the water out, no problem.  Let the water in, big problem.  My 6-7 fish got water in it, just a little and over a period of weeks the planks swelled.  The skins were kind of corrugated, but it was not a problem and it surfed fine.  I guess the water made with wood swell and that opened up a seam near the nose.  A recent surf with my son on the fish yielded about half a gallon of water in the fish after the surf!  NO!  So I stripped  the glass, which was pretty easy. 

Here the skin is stripped and I've cut out  a two access hole for drying and reguling the bottom planks.  I used an inexpensive subfloor adhesive to attach the ribs and skins.  Either the glue is not really waterproof, or the movement of the skins was strong enough to break the bond.    Also, this is the only board I've finished with polyester resin.  I now believe strongly that poly is too brittle to be used over  wood.  None of my epoxy finished boards have shown any problems like this.  Maybe everybody else know this but I just figured it out! 

After I routered out the top deck, I was able to just pull the decking off with my hand...not a good testament to the adhesive.  So the plan is to let this thing dry out and then reglue the bottom skin to the ribs using...??? I don't know!  Maybe 3M 5200.  That is supposed to be  the best thing, so  I'll try it.  Then I'll cut in a dutchman on the deck and reglass with 6 ounce cloth and epoxy.  I've used 4 ounce on my boards so far, and after stripping it off, man, is it thin!  Maybe 6 ounce would be better.  If I were a good glasser, I'd double wrap the rails, as that is where the critical glue bonds are, but that sounds like a lot of work.

Here is my fix to reglue the bottom to the frame.  I've added 1/4" square strips glued to both the frame and the bottom on each side of the rib.  It was not realistic to get 5200 between the ribs and the skins and I used Titebond III.  This will give a greater gluing area and reduce the stresses.

Here is a doubler along the top of the rib so I can reglue the planks adjacent to the opening.

Here is the center planks clamped to the new doublers.

Knee Update

I feel like I've turned a corner and am back on the road to becoming a whole functional person.  A whole series of events way beyond my control kept me from getting some guidance and physical therapy following my surgery.  The surgeon's post surgery instructions were pretty weak and did not give much guidance as to what level of activity might be okay.  After getting back home just before Christmas from some travelling, I felt pretty damn good and strong, so I started surfing.  Just short outings with a few waves.  Well, after a few days of that, I was not ready for that and my knee swelled up and I was in pain and I thought I had reinjured it.  Finally got hooked up with my physical therapist and with her help and a lot of dedicated exercise over the last month, my knee if finally looking normal and feeling normal.  My leg strength is building and with that I'm able to do a little  more every day.  I'm still not ready to surf...yeah I took a wave last Sunday and my knee wobbled around like it was held together with rubber bands.  But there was no pain or swelling.  So I'll still continue to go out and paddle and get my salt water fix.  See you all  out there when this swell dies down!