Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Of course, all the wood here is scrap from other project. I'll pop for some ebony or walnut for the fret board.
Those scrap looking pieces are braces for the lining while the glue dries.
Friday, February 6, 2009
Here are some keel fins for a 6-7 cedar fish. I originally milled the wood at 3/8-inch thick and then thought that that was too thin to foil a 9-inch long fin. So I added a second 3/8 layer for final thickness of 3/4-inch. This was a good thickness as it allowed me to foil the entire fin.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Monday, February 2, 2009
I tried to keep the rails fairly round, pretty much 50-50 for the nose and mid section going to probably a 60-40 at the tail. This has worked out really well. There is plenty of speed and enough suction on the rails to make it a pretty good nose rider. The bottom has two channels which I think gives it good speed.
I copied a pretty famous fin and am really pleased and surprised at how well it works. I made the fin from cedar with pine accent strips. The pine came from pallett I found at the office. It's full foiled and is a maximum of about 3/4-inch thick, with the max thickness at about 1/3 of the chord length. Surprisingly, this fin makes the board super loose, and not surprisingly, gives lots of bite, even when up on the nose. It only seems to lose its bite just after takeoff, if I turn to early and am high on the wave, then it kind of shimmys around and quickly bites in as I pick up speed. I did not add any reinforcing to the bottom skin only because I did not even think about it! The skin on the bottom is only 3/16". So, with the fin glassed on, the whole thing flexes a little from side to side. I don't know if this has any effect on anything, but there are some people who believe that flexy fins give lots of drive off the bottom turn.