Here is a typical 1/4" plywood frame. Now I would add 1/4" square pieces along the top and bottom so there is more gluing area for the top and bottom skins. Note the chine rail notch at the end of the rib.
Here you can see the chine rail strip going in. For softer rails use a 3/8 to 1/2 " wide chine just to be safe.
Here is a close up of the chine rail strip. After that is in on both sides, then you can add the first rail strip against the chine strip.
Here the rails are done and they run long at either end. I'll cut them clean and add solid blocking at the nose and tail so I don't have to bend the rail strips to the curves.
Here you can see how much the top skin will overlap the rails at the sides. You can also see the solid rail blocking at the tail. A solid tail block gets epoxied on later.
Here the rails are wrapped over the top for a couple of inches for a good overlap and I've added some longtudinal stringers (1/4 x 1/4") set into the tops of the ribs for additional gluing area. At this point, the rails in the deck area get planed down, thinning toward the middle of the board so the deck has a nice fit.